winterSALON/2014 participant: Berber Soepboer's Public Identity

winterSALON/2014: in de Posthoornkerk

Public Identity door Berber Soepboer:  is de uitwerking van de opdracht voor het project Te[ch]x[ti]les van museum het MOTI in Breda. Hiervoor werkte Berber Soepboer de tegenovergestelde benadering van haar ontwerpvisie uit, geïnspireerd op kunststroming de Stijl en met gebruik van elementen uit de traditie van de streekdracht. Motieven en kleuren binnen de streekdracht vertelden precies waar de persoon vandaan kwam en wat zijn/haar sociale en economische status was. Het model voor de karakteristiek kraplap uit Bunschoten – Spakenburg staat nu model voor vrouwen geboren in de provincie Utrecht. De kleur wordt bijvoorbeeld bepaald door het inkomen en de positie van de streep op het kledingstuk wordt bepaald door de leeftijd. Zo krijgt elke persoon een passend keurslijf aangemeten, door middel van gegevens over zichzelf die hij/zij niet kan beïnvloeden. Hiermee hoopt Berber Soepboer mensen te prikkelen om de vormgeving van zichzelf door middel van kledingkeuze weer naar zichzelf toe te trekken, in plaats van een kant en klare identiteit te kiezen uit de rekken van commerciële kledingconcerns.

(image: berber soepboer)

Berber Soepboer doet momenteel onderzoek naar de mogelijkheden om de ontwerpen ook te kunnen verkopen, ben je geinteresseerd? Stuur dan een mail naar info@berbersoepboer.nl

Over: Berber Soepboer (Schiermonnikoog, 1983), studeerde aan de Minerva en Rietveld Academie, met als specialisatie mode. Met haar eindexamenwerk won ze in 2007 de Academieprijs voor Vormgeving. Daarna begon Soepboer zelfstandig in het vak. In 2008 leidde een opdracht van Galerie de Krabbendans tot een samenwerking met Michiel Schuurman, waaruit de Colour-in Dress (Inkleurjurk) ontstond. Deze jurk is opgenomen in de collectie van MOTI en is in de museumwinkel te koop.

Berber Soepboer ontwerpt kledingstukken die je op verschillende manieren kunt dragen. De drager wordt eigenlijk medeontwerper, doordat zij met lintjes kan schuiven, vakjes in kan kleuren of onderdelen aan elkaar kan koppelen, totdat er een kledingstuk ontstaat. Met deze aanpak wil Soepboer dragers stimuleren om zich bewust te worden van de mogelijkheden om zelf de eigen identiteit vorm te geven. Deze aanpak dient ook de duurzaamheid: een kledingstuk word je dierbaarder als je het zelf hebt ontworpen en steeds kunt aanpassen. Je kunt er dan nog een tweede of derde leven aan geven.

SALON/BJ Curating/Participating: Yangmeizhu xie jie #77

SALON/BJ Curating: SALON/BJ brought a selection of work, by Dutch designers/artists, from The Netherlands to Beijing, it will be on show at different venues in the Dashilar area. 

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Curating: Soepboer and Stooker, Mimi Berlin
Participating: Jan Willem Kaldenbach, Mimi Beijing

Place: Yangmeizhu xie jie #77

From left to right: Mimi Berlin's fashion Fest nr2, Soepboer & Stooker/Michiel Schuurman, JW Kaldenbach's SALON/BJ report, Mimi Beijing.

Mimi Beijing made in Beijing with volunteers of SALON/BJ by Mimi Berlin

Yangmeizhu xie jie #77 & #79

Getting ready for the opening day

Getting ready for the opening date. Everybody in Dashilar is busy getting ready, floors are being painted, windows are being cleaned etc. etc. Even the visitors and locals are anxious to see how the exhibition space will look when finished.

A visitor from the Hutong at Yangmezhu Xi Jie #79, at Mimi Berlin, JW Kaldenbach and Soepboer & Stoker

The streets are being painted at the Factory at LAVA and rENs

Visitors have bought the "rubber duck" the image which BJDW has adapted as it's own

Zhuja #7 work in progress at Chris Kabel

Work by Anouk Griffioen and Oda Pausma waiting to be installed properly

The fence at Dashilar get's a fresh lick of paint, in BJDW blue

(Photo's by © JW Kaldenbach)

At Soepboer & Stooker you can still admire the graduation collections of Morta Griskeviciute, Poul Brouwer and Jolka Wiens of The Rietveld Academy 'MMXII' - mentored by Niels Klavers and Oscar Raaijmakers - UNTIL July 28th 2012

The Rietveld Art Academy in Amsterdam hasn't have a name when it comes to its fashion department and every year the number of graduates in fashion design declined, with probably this year as it's all-time low with just three fashion graduates. But better fashion times are coming. 

Since a year the fashion department has a new director, and not the least: fashion designer Niels Klavers. Together with another big fashion name Oscar Raaijmakers, Klavers trained and mentored the fashion graduates Morta Griskeviciute, Poul Brouwer and Jolka Wiens. These graduates told they had the best final year of their fashion education thanks to Klavers and Raaijmakers, because just being with three students you can get the most of attention and guidance, especially from two enthusiastic and professional teachers. 

The energy and quality of this years graduation collections is high and stood out in clear concepts, research process and experimentation. These three collections and having Niels Klavers and Oscar Raaijmakers on board give a new appeal to the Fashion Department of the Rietveld. Result: a dozen of future fashion students have chosen to apply for the Rietveld now instead of the better-known fashion academies out there.  

Although fashion week is over and everybody is enjoying their holidays, in the magnificent store of Soepboer & Stooker we can still admire the Rietveld graduation collections of Morta, Poul and Jolka until July 28th 2012. 
The store of Soepboer & Stooker is at Overtoom 9 in Amsterdam, open until 4pm and worthwhile visiting. 

POUL BROUWER's BLURRING GRIDS OF SHAME

Poul Brouwer's collection called SHAME, focusing on personal matters he feel or felt embarrassed by or struggled with, like being a red head or liking the Spice Girls as a young boy. The feeling of shame he translated in covering up true identity for the outside world using blankets as his starting point. What kinds of silhouettes take shape when folding, wrapping and layering stuffed blankets on the male body? His pattern design was formed by coincidence. Amazed by the pattern of common tiles, he draw with water-soluble black markers grids by hand on cotton shirts, and, again, by coincidence, discovered the black ink blurred in a thousand colours when dropping water on the thin lines. It fits his concept of SHAME and to resolve the shame, because instead of 'walking the line', Poul is more the kind of person to push the envelope and be different and colourful.  

  


MORTA GRISKEVICIUTE's COLLIDED FASHION RUINES

'Fashion has a pragmatic aspect that I missed in other art disciplines; it combines creativity, technical skill and 3D', Morta explains in an interview. She is not per se a fashion designer, more a creative director with an educational background in illustration and fine arts. 'My collection resembles the way I draw: expressive yet controlled'. For her graduation collection she was inspired by the photos of Robert Polidori, who captures the chaos of decaying and neglected interiors, ruined by disasters, wars or by the hand of time. Morta is fascinated by beautiful ugliness, combining 'trashy elements with contradictory elements; chaos after the chaos'. She focussed especially on the textures, the colours and the flaws of the interior and its materials: torn wall paper, moss on rotten wood, scaled off paint of former luxurious places like opera houses, ball rooms, cinema's or warehouses, and translated these images in textiles -like furry flocked plastic, paper and knitwear- and in shape - expressive and loose- but as a whole all well executed.  

 

MIMICRY DRESSES OF JOLKA WIENS

'I am not your typical fashion person being mostly excited by the psychological and social aspects of design', Morta Wiens explained and continued: 'What does a fabric like neoprene expresses and what kind of experience gives it when wearing it?' Her designs of laser-cut neoprene are flat 'dead' pieces and need a body to come alive and to reveal its identity. Although neoprene and laser-cutting is considered as 'done and dull' due to the popularity of the raw material on todays runway, Morta said it motivates her even more to prove neoprene and laser cutting can still astonish. For her graduation project she researched the anatomy of the human face, how the muscles are placed and creates different facial expressions, mimicry, because the face can communicate on many different levels. This concept she translated in her laser-cut graphics and designs. Like a face, a body gives new shape and therefore a new expression to her cobweb black and white fashion designs.

pictures and text by Marij Rynja

SALON/istanbul presents: 'Present and Past + Identity and Perception', scarfs by SOEPBOER & STOOKER @ J.C. Herman

SCARFS IN WINDOW DISPLAY: 

title: present & past + identity & perception

Inspired by Countess Jacoba van Beieren a remarkable historical person from this region. Elements from her life such as traditional dress, Dutch ship trade/VOC and waterways are reflected in the designs. 

Present and Past + Identity and Perception were visualized in designs in which shapes and prints of the past get a new form and function in the present. This has resulted in garments which can be worn in different ways where there is an interaction between the individual pieces by means of encounters and connections.  

The significance of the individual designs becomes evident by merging them; four garments together, with a square base and a print, display the family arms of Jacoba of Beieren. Three garments are together a VOCcompass. The designs for the two silk scarves find their origin in folds; for storing clothes in cupboards and chests, it was necessary to fold in the old days. The more folds, the richer the owner was. The folds are visible on the print but the actual scarf isn’t folded, also the VOC painting is folded and then printed. 

A collection designed in collaboration with Anne Stooker. Commisioned by the municipality of Zaltbommel to promote the dutch fortress cities Gorinchem, Woudrichem, Castle Loevesteijn and Fort Vuren. 

About Soepboer & Stooker

Founders Berber Soepboer (Schiermonnikoog,1983) and Anne Stooker (Utrecht,1984) met at the Gerrit Rietveld Academy while studying fashion. Combining their talents they are able to create their unique shop/studio/gallery since October 2009 and fashion label: Soepboer & Stooker Collection since January 2011.

Soepboer & Stooker is a shop/studio/gallery based on the concept of ‘all-inclusive fashion’ concerning textiles and clothing. 

Exclusive fashion from young designers and established labels like BLESS, Marloes Blaas, and Reality Studio can be purchased as well as books, magazines and accessories.

SALON/istanbul has opened its doors for you! Here is a first preview of some high lights ...

Pictures: Marij Rynja for SALON/ 

opening at the courtyard of the Amsterdam Museum, listening to Gijs Stork

opening with singer/theater director Khadija Massaoudi,
who confessed being in love with love and sang two Turkish love songs for us

In front of JC Herman at the Sint Jansstraat 15,
where Soepboer & Stooker show their digital printed silk scarfs in the windowdisplay

Zeynep Bacinoglu's Liquid Shells @ Amsterdam Museum

'Look at you' - amazing mannequin dolls with animated moving eyes dressed in the creations of Sara  Vrugt @ Magazijn 153

The mannequins of Sara Vrugt keep an eye on the SALON/crowd @ Magazijn 153

One of the many pictures of Dutch-Turkish photographer Ahmet Polat @ Magazijn153

The doors of the Oude Kerk give access to a breathtaking part of SALON/istanbul 

Tea Time Re-REPAIR fountain of JONGHLABEL @ De Oude Kerk 

One of the crafted designs of  BLAENK @ De Oude Kerk  

VROONLAND gives a preview of the product they're creating for the
Istanbul Design Bienial / SALON/TR @ Willet-Holthuysen 

The early adaptors of SALON/istanbul (the first visitors)'re watching the video projection of  Reinier Bosch & Marleen Folkerts and Hyun Yeu @ Willet-Holthuysen

This ceiling will never be the same now it has been transformed by BCXSY @ Willet-Holthuysen 

Side by side the purses of Tassenmuseum Hendrikje are the
dandy gloves of designer Gabriel Guevara

Mildew will never be the same again when its interpreted by Lizan Freijsen @ Museum van Loon 

The woman of Jongh Geleerd Oud Gedaan - an initiative of JONGHLABEL
demonstrate their crafts in the store of The Frozen Fountain 

Last chance to see the exhibition of MOAM @ Fontana Fortuna. Here a dress by Winde Rienstra who translated the Flower Bomb parfume of Viktor & Rolf

Last chance to see the exhibition of MOAM @ Fontana Fortuna. Here a dialogue between old work of stylist Frank Ankone (left) translated by Sonny Groo (right)  

The end of the SALON/ tour and the opening of SALON/istanbul: De Slang. Enter this yellow door and step into a visual world of BEGINNINGS by Kidscase & Annemarieke van Drimmelen and a set design by X+L   

BEGINNINGS @ De Slang