July 10, 2012
SALON/istanbul - video Sara Vrugt
Look at You 06 - by Sara Vrugt - SALON/istanbul from Salon/ - culturalfashionparcours on Vimeo.
Sara Vrugt: ' The concept of veiling and the way women deal with this controversial piece of fabric form the inspiration for this collection, together with an interest for authentic techniques. Part of the investigation concerning this matter has been revealed in these garments'
July 9, 2012
July 8, 2012
SALON/istanbul @ Magazijn 153: Ahmet Polat, Josephine Colsen, Sara Vrugt, Painted Series and a video installation of Deniz Buga
| In the hallway of Magazijn the black and white pictures of Ahmet Polat |
| Left: men's wear by Safak Tokur // Right: Lamp by Josephine Colsen |
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Sara Vrugt 's ‘Look at you 07’ (2012), Japanese silk and dmc-yarn
embroidered on silk/cotton voile. While travelling overland from The
Netherlands to Iran these miniature embroideries have been made by Sara as tactile log
posts. The encountered people presented as strangers show that the artist is
the stranger in the end, a question of perspective. Those moments in which the traveller
is an outsider, a gharedji, shows our helplessness when it comes to truly
understanding the other.
The work of Sara Vrugt focuses
on the combination of fashion design and art. She uses clothing as part of an
autonomous language. By using textile as a medium and the human body as an
instrument she aims to investigate, question and push the boundaries of her
discipline with her collections, textile installations and community projects.
Thanks to the sculptural and theatrical qualities her work is categoriale in
divers art disciplines. The reflective and critical position she holds towards
her immediate environment and society is a returning aspect in her work.
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Deniz Buga was born in 1982 in Istanbul. He studied social sciences in Bosphorus University, Istanbul. He wrote film articles for national magazines, worked in film sets and finally shot his first short films: Brothers (2003) and Sleep (2005) both made their screenings at Oberhausen Film Festival. Along with partners, he founded Studio 4 Istanbul, an independent production company, thus getting actively involved in the Turkish independent film scene. In 2006, he was accepted into MFA Film Production Program at NYU Tisch School of the Arts and moved to New York where he specialized in writing, directing and cinematography. Deniz Buga is currently a resident at the Rijksakademie van beeldende kunsten, Amsterdam.
July 7, 2012
July 6, 2012
SALON/Workshop 'Amsterdam-Istanbul' - what are the designers working on for the Istanbul Design Biennial?
The workshop provided opportunities of encounter between fashion and product designers such Mattijs van Bergen, Vroonland, Desiree Hammen, Hyun Yeu, BCXSY, Antoine Peters, Borre Akkersdijk, Noman and Reinier Bosch who travelled to Istanbul for this project, with various organizations and ateliers that could offer co-operation. These young and independent designers working on new ideas and techniques, shared their knowledge of legacy and craft, the significance of the unique, and the confrontational encounters between hand-crafting techniques and new technologies, with the artists, designers, craftsmen and producers of the creative industry in Istanbul. The sites visited by the designers and the students included the ateliers where the art of Ebru painting is performed, the Topkapı Museum which houses Turkish carpets, caftans and seating groups, leather ateliers, artisans’ shops in Tahtakale and the rug sellers in the Sultanahmet area.
In the period up to the Istanbul Design Biennial in October, whre SALON/ is part of, the designers will use their experiences and observations of the unique characteristics of Istanbul to create new products that pay homage to their originals by clearly revealing their ties to them.
At the Museum Willet-Holthuysen SALON/ lifts a corner of the veil what the designers are working on. Here we can see their progressions and research, a journey from idea to final product. The workshop was organized collaboratively by the Royal Netherlands Consulate and the Dutch DFA as part of the celebrations for the 400th anniversary of Dutch-Turkish diplomaitc relations, and was hosted by Material ConneXion Istanbul in Yapı Endüstri Merkezi.
Mattijs van Bergen investigates, decomposes and melts images of his previous four collections, in order to restore the parts into a renewed but still iconic Mattijs item. At the museum Mattijs reveals four paper collages representing his research process.
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Placed on an antique diner table the sketches, drawings, crayons, inspiration images and Antoine’s coffee cup are right where he left it. Fashion designer Antoine Peters is working on a laser printed self portrait he calls ‘hide and seek’, referring to the revealing and concealing of laser cut and printout techniques. -->
Pauline van Dongen made contact with one of Istanbul's biggest industrial companies, which also develops and applies new production techniques and high tech materials. Pauline van Dongen’s sculptural scientific designs are made of materials not common in the fashion industry, what can transgress the possibilities of moulage and the appearance of fashion design as we know it.
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Traditional craft techniques are still a flourishing part of Istanbul’s rich culture. One of them is Gold Embroidery, a rare technique that has its origins in Turkey. Being specialized in this technique Desiree Hammen will explore it further as part of the SALON/workshop to combine contemporary and traditional embroidery techniques. Desiree Hammen shall create a conceptual altar where she honors our daily ‘industrial’ clothes and the clothes created by craftsmanship. In her research and in the garments she presents in the Willet-Holthuys her passion for craft is a key element, as well as the positive vibes of the encounter of the west and the east.
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Furniture label Vroonland challenged itself to re-invent the pouffe. Leading in the design process for Vroonland is the overall question: is a chair purely functional? In Istanbul Vroonland noticed people rather sit on the ground or on pillows than on chairs. How will a crossover between a Western chair and an Eastern pouffe look like and be confortable, using wicker-work techniques? Examining and exploring the means and usage of design classics will create new perceptions and functions. This eventually leads to a pedigree or an evaluation within the Vroonland collection.
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NOMAN presents the starting point for an installation called ‘Project Osman’. Intrigued by images of evolution fashion designer Selina Parr en set designer Lara Tolman of NOMAN decided to make a mutation of a traditional Turkish carpet into five steps. They analysed its patterns, colours and images and gave these elements a contemporary, abstract interpretation. The rectangle flat shape of the carpet will evoluate into a 3D object, using rubber, a modern counterpart of the traditional knotted carpet. The knots are replaces by wood for connection. The rubber parts of the object shall also serve as a contra product to accentuate the tension between handwork and machine work. -->
Borre Akkersdijk has a thing for thickness, volume, knits and double weaves. He is driven by the idea to transform something two-dimensional into a three-dimensional item. For SALON/TR he developed double knitted fabrics, the patterns of a jacket stitched into it.
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Istanbul has captured the western imagination for centuries; especially the boundaries between private and public fascinated the West. Looking at what was not supposed to be seen was a particular popular theme in the arts during the 18th and 19th century’ Europe and formed the base of a romanticised idea about the East. This historical data has been the inspiration for the installation of Studio Reinier Bosch. It is a study of the process of looking and being looked upon; the way the outer world looks at you and the way you look at the outer world. The room divider reflects the fine-grained boundary between realities and cultural images; it mirrors the play of cultural image-forming, and invites the redefinition of a cultural image. Design: Studio Reinier Bosch; Research: Marleen Folkerts; Thanks to Kim Amankwaa, Anil Van Der Zee, and Hyun Yeu. -->
pictures by Marij Rynja
Previous blogpost on the SALON/ amsterdam-istanbul workshop visit this link: http://salon1amsterdam.blogspot.nl/2012/05/pictures-taken-by-participants-pre.html
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