SALON/Kant: Anne-Grethe Filtenborg

‘I enhance my dress with my skin’ is a knit-couture lace project by Anne-Grethe Filtenborg. The title reflects the concept in which lace is seen in its essence of transparency, creating a dialogue between skin and dress/cell, pixel and stitch, reflecting the eternal fascination and obsession with skin.

 The body of work consists of a series of delicate dresses and tunics. The essence is to be found in the textile development; light yet rich in tactility, interacting with graphics and optical effects. It includes mesh-lace and the designer’s innovation of 3D jacquard knits in which the graphics become optical, ever changing contrast and color intensity in accordance to the wearer’s movements as well as the angle from which perceived. Silhouettes and details are kept minimal and pure, taking their cue from the textile aspects in terms of drape, floating aspect, plasticity or sculptural effect. Each model incorporates a graphic design which enhances the inner and outer silhouette. The pieces are crafted in the finest Italian luxury yarns. The fibers used are silk with metal, a viscose composition with an extraordinary matt/luster effect and extra fine cashwool.

KNITWEAR FOR PEOPLE AND PLACES © by Anne-Grethe Filtenborg is a pop up label which deals with knitwear design for various settings, including projects addressing the body as well as space and interior projects. Anne-Grethe Filtenborg is a Danish Amsterdam based fashion and textile professional. She has a BA in Textile Design from Danmarks Designskole in Copenhagen as well as a BA in Fashion from Gerrit Rietveld Academie in Amsterdam.

Next to her work for her own label she has a standing career as a design tutor and leader in Art en Design education within several of the Dutch academies, including AMFI, ARTEZ Fashion Masters and the Gerrit Rietveld Academie where she was also head of the Fashion department.

SALON/Kant: Mimi Berlin

Mimi Berlin’s Fashion-Fest #2. Digital print 4,50 x 2 M. On exhibit during SALON/Kant, at Kabinet, Amsterdam

Mimi Berlin’s Fashion-Fest #2. Digital print 4,50 x 2 M. On exhibit during SALON/Kant, at Kabinet, Amsterdam

Mimi Berlin’s Fashion-Fest #2. Digital print 4,50 x 2 M. On exhibit during SALON/Kant, at Kabinet, Amsterdam

Mimi Berlin’s Fashion-Fest #2. Digital print 4,50 x 2 M. On exhibit during SALON/Kant, at Kabinet, Amsterdam

Mimi Berlin’s Fashion-Fest #2. Digital print 4,50 x 2 M.
on exhibit at Kabinet in Hotel Droog, Amsterdam (July 2013.) From left to right: Mimi Berlin.
Mimi Berlin’s Fashion-Fest II is a photo collage. The women are wearing VintageDeluxe outfits designed in the 1970′s by Dutch artist Fong Leng. All the portrayed Mimi Berlin are Style Engineers in art and/or fashion.
We really would like to thank the following people very much for their kindness, time and knowledge. Hair was done by Taco Stuiver for 1027 @ House of Orange. Make-Up by Vannessa Chan @ House of Orange using Clinique. The clothes by Fong Leng were collected by Ferry van der Nat.
Click for details concerning what Mimi Berlin is wearing in this photography collage.

winterSALON/2013: Ahmet Polat

Ahmet Polat (1978) is a Dutch-Turkish photographer living in Istanbul. Polat has studied at the St. Joost Academy in Breda. Ahmet Polat, recipient of the International Center of Photography's 'Young Photographer Award' in 2006, is a photographer whose work questions preconceived notions. 
Polat's mother is Dutch and his father is Turkish. After a few years of travelling, he moved to Turkey to explore his heritage through photography. 
In the past years he has worked on commissioned projects for cultural institutes like the Rijksmuseum and international publications like the New York Times. 

www.ahmetpolat.nl

(photocredits: JW Kaldenbach)

winterSALON/2013: Adrian Esparza

Above: Esparza's installation at Kabinet (Hotel Droog)
(photocredits: JW Kaldenbach)

Adrian Esparza (1970) was born and raised in El Paso and returned here to live soon after earning his graduate degree from the California Institute for the Arts. He garners much of his source material and artistic inspiration from his borderland experience, and the artist's daily encounter with this political divide seems to nourish his perpetual challenge of generally accepted boundaries and hierarchies.

winterSALON/2013: Marie-Jose Jongerius

Above: Marie-Jose Jongerius at Hotel Droog. (photocredits: JW Kaldenbach)

Marie-Jose Jongerius (1970) studied photography at the Royal Academy of Arts, The Hague (1992-1996) and completed a Master's degree in photography at the AKV-St.Joost Academy in Breda in 2001. From 2002 to 2006 Jongerius lived in Los Angeles. Next to her autonomous work she photographs commissioned work for various clients, such as New York Times Magazine, Art + Auction and VPROgids.

http://www.edgesoftheexperiment.org/

winterSALON/2013: Mimi Berlin

On exhibit at winter/Salon 2013 at Hotel Droog, Amsterdam, sharing Droog Design’s exhibition space with Marga Weimans, Nala Ryz and Marie-Jose Jongerius.

Fashion Fest/January 2013. From left to right Mimi Berlin. VUFU&FE/ (von uns für uns & für euch) Die gesamte Mimi Berlin.  Paraphrasing Halston and models, 1972 by Duane Michals. Frisuren Taco Stuiver for 1027 @ House of Orange. Mimi Berlin’s Fashion-Fest I is a photo collage. All the portrayed Mimi Berlin are Style Engineers in art and/or fashion. For more detailed info click here.

Mimi Berlin is a collective of interdisciplinary, creative people, or style engineers, as they like to name themselves. They all work very closely with Mimi Berlin. In the opinion of these style engineers, Mimi Berlin is the most inspirational person imaginable...

"We'd like to inspire you, in order to make life as nice as possible. Therefore we feed your brain, with visual delicacies." Mimi Berlin, 2010.

winterSALON/2013: Salon diner at Hôtel Droog

Last night we had a wonderful diner at Hôtel Droog with fashion designer Antoine Peters. From the waitresses to the food, everything was in tune with the colourfull designs.

We like spending time with friends. Hosting a beautiful evening on a unique location, like Hôtel Droog, is part of our DNA. 

In the spirit of this successfull first edition of Salon/Diner, Manon Schaap announced the stocksale of fashion designer Hyun Yeu. A stocksale with cocktails on February the 18th. More information on this event will follow soon.

 

 

Verslag One Man Show Koos van den Akker: een 'LIVE' demonstratie hoe Koos verft met textiel

Door: Marij Rynja 

Afgelopen woensdag logde Koos van den Akker in om live te  demonstreren aan Salon/2 bezoekers hoe hij zijn 'paintings' van textiel maakt. Derde jaars studenten van het AMFI, stylisten, kunstenaars, fans en nieuwsgierige bezoekers zagen hoe Koos zittend achter de webcam in zijn workroom in New York City aan de slag gaat. Ingezoomd op zijn tafelblad zien we de handen van Koos, zijn kruin en zijn onderbuik werken. Ja, zijn onderbuik, niet zozeer doelend op de bourgondische omvang van deze kunstenaar als meer zijn intuitive aanpak. Want Koos gaat zonder voorbedachte rade aan de slag. Enkel de stoffen die hij om de hoek heeft gekocht in een straat vol textiel boetieks vormen zijn leidraad. 

Koos begint met een paar zwarte repen te scheuren en deze als tralies vast te spelden. Vervolgens belsuit hij een stofje met zwart-witte ruiten te pakken, knipt een cirkel en knipt weer een cirkel uit deze cirkel. Als een kind dat op de kleuterklas geconcentreerd loopt te plakken en te knippen, is Koos bezig. Hij twijfelt nauwelijks, gaat vastberaden voor dit of dat stofje en knipt uit wat hem grieft. 

Met spuitlijm en een paar kranten om de stof te beschermen legt hij zijn collages vast om deze tot slot onder de naaimachine vast te stikken.  

'Zo simpel is het', zegt Koos zelf ook. 'There's nothing to it!'  

Over zijn werkwijze en eigen stijl zegt hij dat het een fijne lijn is tussen eenvoudig en geniaal, tussen spuuglelijk en kunstzinnig. En dat is zijn unieke stijl, zijn kracht, zijn eigenwijze kenmerk waar Koos in de jaren 70 en 80 in Amerika mee opviel tussen de hippe New Yorkers. 

Op 28 jarige leeftijd wist Koos bij het zien van de film Breakfast at Tiffanies dat New York zijn plek moest zijn, want het ingetogen Den Haag en normale Nederland kon zijn fantasievolle, vrije ontwerpen niet waarderen. Maar ook in Amerika konden ze zijn ontwerpen en stijl niet altijd begrijpen: 'De pers vond het maar een vreemd gedoe', vertelt Koos. 'What the fuck is that', riepen ze. 


Maar nu krijgt Koos de waardering die hij altijd al hoopte: de jonge mensen vinden hun weg naar hem en staan open voor zijn manier van textielbewerking en werkwijze. 'Het is voor mij weer een leuke tijd om te werken, ik ben nu weer 'in''. Zo vertelt hij dat Marc Jacobs bij hem langs kwam en het 'amazing' vond wat hij deed. En gezegd moet worden, de hedendaagse catwalk toont af en toe een Koos van den Akker revival, want de jaren 80 zijn erg in de mode. De fameuze Bill Cosbey truien duiken op tijdens mannenmode shows van o.a. Raf Simons en Versace. Of in ieder geval iets wat erop lijkt. Want van het werk van Koos bestaat geen tweede en is niet te kopiëren.  
Koos vertelt dat hij niet kan voldoen aan een massaproductie, ondanks dat hij het wel heeft geprobeerd door zijn 'collage doeken' in China na te maken. Maar toch had dat niet hetzelfde effect en gevoel.  'Ik geloof niet in massa', zegt hij, 'but I absolutely love H&M and all that shit, I think that's just very great!'.  

Momenteel is hij bezig aan zijn najaarscollectie. Maar in hoeverre passen de geijkte modeseizoenen bij zijn onconventionele, intuïtieve manier van werken?  

'Ik heb het geluk dat ik niet een jaar vooruit hoef te werken omdat ik niet te maken heb met inkopers of massa. Als het winter wordt, ga ik een paar maanden van tevoren een wintercollectie maken die ik direct in de winkel hang. Ik gebruik dan winterse, zware stoffen, zoals wol en in de zomer gebruik ik linnen en lichtere stoffen. Maar meer dan dat pas ik me niet op de seizoenen aan. Ook waag ik me niet aan modeshows, veel te duur! En waarvoor? Ik hang het gewoon op een hanger in mijn winkel, ik heb een vaste vriendenkring die mijn kleding kopen. Ik ben heel niche'. 

Opvallend is het gemak waarmee Koos over zijn carrière praat en zijn huidige leven. Aan een stuk door geeft deze spraakzame 73 jarige in goed Nederlands antwoord op de vragen van het publiek - met af en toe een jeugdige 'fuck' ertussen om meer expressie te geven aan zijn verhaal. Terwijl hij praat probeert hij zijn 'live creatie' te vorderen, maar geeft uiteindelijk op. 'Ik weet niet meer wat ik nu heb gedaan, want aan deze kant is het te donker en aan deze kant is het te licht. Ik laat het even liggen'. 

En zo bouwt een kunstenaar als Koos aan zijn 'paintings'. Als een schilder met verf, schildert Koos met textiel, laag voor laag tot hij tevreden is.  Ondanks zijn leeftijd werkt hij nog altijd met veel plezier, maar hij moet ook blijven werken zonder ooit een pensioen te hebben opgebouwd. Dat vindt hij niet erg. 'Ik hoop dood te vallen achter mijn naaimachine'. En in musea wil hij ook liever niet terecht komen. 'Ik geloof niet in mode in een museum. Kleren moeten door gegeven worden en door gedragen. Dat is het grootste compliment wat je mij kan geven'. 

Volg Koos op zijn facebook, waar hij erg trots op is. 

www.facebook/koosvandenakker 

Salon/2 presents: NOMAN - 'Jeman' - Droog

NOMAN is a new collective, founded by fashion designer Selina Parr, in which she involves professionals from various areas of expertise to realize joint projects surrounding her collections. Selina regards teamwork as the joining of forces, by ways of requesting participants, whom she regards as equals in her way of thinking, to be involved in discussions. 

NOMAN was born out of an idea to work together as equals, in creating a alternative world under one name in which an egos are subordinated.

For the individual members of NOMAN, creating a collection does not end by the clothing itself, it is creating an overall picture. Multiple disciplines merge together to express the "fashion phenomenon" as a joint artwork. Fashion is more than a garment, it is the sum of its parts and is revealed in applied artworks, like photography, film, installations and illustrations. Structural collaboration with specialists from different disciplines will add an extra dimension to the creation, with the ultimate goal to give concept of "fashion" a broader interpretation. 

At Salon/2 NOMAN presents it's contention in an installation that is the result of a collaboration between Selina Parr and Lara Tolman. The installation is called JEMAN. 


www.selinaparr.com
http://n-o-m-a-n.com

Salon/2 presents: Studio Noir - Symbiosis - Droog

(picture by Jan Willem Kaldenbach) 

(picture by Marij Rynja)

Studio Noir is an initiative of small Group of artists consisting of four photographers and one stylist. Working individually and having their own point of view, Studio Noir offers them a workspace and a meeting place. For Salon/2 they create an installation around one of the designs of Hanna ter Meulen with Symbiosis as a central theme.

www.studionoir.nl

Edwin Oudshoorn's couture collection 'Wie eine Hinde' - based on a true WW II story

(photo: Gijs Stork)

The collection of designer Edwin Oudshoorn is based upon a perticular story set in World War II. A young men, Joop Kotkamp (b.1923), was handed over by his parents to the German conquerors because he was a homosexual. He was deported to a concentration-camp. Fortunately his charme, flair and lifeforce favoured him with the camp guards: ‘Beautiful’ Joop — parading on red high heels he found — walked “wie eine Hinde” (like a dear). After seven months he escaped Germany and settled in Amsterdam, where Joop builded his own fantasy world. Together with his partner Jopie and their dog Fuji he managed to lead a relatively happy life. A house filled with color, splendor, gold and crystal and the occasional trip on a motorcycle to Salzburg. But the trauma from his childhood and the war never let him go. Untill his death in 2010 Joop Kotkamp was scarred by his parents betrayal.

The story about Joop Kotkamp inspired Edwin Oudshoorn into creating his latest collection 'Wie eine Hinde', that is presented on the first floor of Droog. The colours, the shapes, the accessoires and fabrics breath World War II but also represents the extraordinairy personality Kotkamp was and how he have lived for the rest of his life, in a dream world.

Oudshoorns collection 'Wie eine Hinde' is presented in a context of brick walls, metal poles and barbwire. Typical elements are the shoes with heels like hoofs of a dear, refering to the title ‘Wie eine Hinde’. Silk-like charmeuse, fine tweed, ‘beaded’ fabrics, lace and voile, with now and then a flowery wall paper effect. Salient detail is the pattern design which looks flowery but is based on the Jewish cross. 

(photo's by Marij Rynja)

 

This and earlier posts are edited by Marij Rynja 

TOMORROW is a unique MasterClass by Koos van den Akker to follow at DROOG, at 2PM

Salon/2 presents: Oda Pausma - '29.10.2010' - Droog

'29.10.2010' - a collection that started with an end: a vanished love...  

"Long black and white silhouettes create a moderate and elegant parade. Many contrasts are combined; stiff leather versus fluid silks, black versus white, vulnerability versus strong and solid, introvert versus extrovert. The use of many contrasts reflect the melancholic character of the collection. It are all-in-one pieces, coats of leather and endless fluid silk trousers tell the story of '29.10.2010'." This is how Oda Pausma explains her unique pieces she shows on the first floor of Droog. Her style is sculptural, mathematic, and maybe even typical Dutch if placed in the context of what we called Dutch Modernism. Or is Oda presenting us the Dutch Meta-Modernism of fashion design with her unique aesthetics and feeling for material and fabrication? Oda Pausma graduated last year at the Fashion Masters at ArtEZ Arnhem with the collection 'Hobohemian Heaven', based on the Chelsey Hotel in New York where extravagant artists, writers and actors came in the 60s and 70s. Oda loves poetry and literature what is often an inspiration for her to create the concept for a new collection. Also, for '29.10.2010' she used prose as a starting point: 

The day black turned more black, gravity got more strength and sober gained an extra layer.  

'29.10.2010'

Day of an end

Day of disbelieve

Day of a past

Day of melancholic love

Day of contrasts

Day of a new future, and the day HOPE got more value...

Oda Pausma together with
Mascha van Zijverden
Course Director of Fashion Masters ArtEZ
(picture Marij Rynja)

More about Oda Pausma: 

Oda Pausma (b.1985) was born in The Netherlands. Graduated ‘Cum Laude’ with her collection: ‘Traces of a shadow’, in 2008 at the Amsterdam Fashion Institute (AMFI) for her BA degree.  In the same year she was one of the selected participants of ‘Lichting 2008’ a show at the Amsterdam International Fashion Week.  September 2008 she started her Master Course in Fashion Design at the Fashion Institute Arnhem (FIA, ArtEZ).  Within this course she designed a shoe: ‘The Untitled Shoe’.  Made a maximum statement collection: ‘Pure Awkward’, and graduated ‘excellent’ with her collection: ‘Hobohemian Heaven’.  This collection was exposed at the GEN.11 exhibition during Fashion Week Paris in the heart of Paris, ‘Le Marais’.  In July 2010 she presented her first individual fashion show at the Amsterdam International Fashion Week.  May 2011 Pausma was one of the ten participants of the well known fashion competition Festival Hyères, where she showed her collection ‘29.10.2010’ inspired on a vanished love. Oda Pausma lives and works in Amsterdam.

TODAY IT'S KOOS PREMIERE at SALON/2 & DROOG - "People in the 80s were like: what the fuck is this!"

Koos have a strong opinion when it comes to Fashion and The Netherlands back in the 60s. He said: "Holland was not set up for fashion [...] woman where like cows there (in The Hague, red.), all they want was a skirt with extra pieces in front so the knees would not wear out to fast." 

When he saw Breakfast at Tiffanies Koos new he would move to New York permanent and leave Holland and their dull fashion tastes behind. 

Further in the interview he talks about his famous Bill Cosby sweaters and said: "If you look at it now, it looks familiar, but when I did this in the eighties there was nothing like this! So people just freaked out and said 'What the fuck is that!' [...] There is a very thin line between that it's just really awful and really genius".....

Come to DROOG today and meet Koos van den Akker, who will be interviewed live...by you, by professionals, by students....

SALON/2 presents: BAS KOSTERS - Free Work 2010/2011 - Droog

"My exhibition is a collage of my free work from 2010 and 2011. Next to my latest dolls it contains a series of drawings made as communicative gestures sent into the world through my blog. Characters are an important part of my universe and I am most passionate about creating new individuals.   

Strings Attached is a new addition to a project that I started during my master at FIA (Fashion Masters ArtEZ Arnhem, red.)  There I designed an item called sliertie animeaux, and it is the inspiration for a technique that I now and then use.

This January I made three outfits for my fashion mutant collection, with the significant ripped fabric strings. 
I decided now is the time to go back to my original idea and create a major follow up that will be a starting point of a new series of works". 


Bas Kosters, 2011. 

image: 'Bas Kosters Salon/2' - Marij Rynja 2011         .

Bas Kosters (1977) was graduated from the Fashion Institute Arnhem in 2003, where straight after he got instand recognition winning the Robijn Fashion Award. During the 2009 edition of the Dutch Fashion Awards Bas Kosters won the Dutch Fashion Incubator Award 2009 and in 2010 he won the Dutch Fashion International Incubator Award 2010.

In 2005 Bas founded the Amsterdam-based Bas Kosters Studio as a platform to host all his fashion and fashion-related projects (including graphic design, music and art performances). Bas is well known as a multitalented, eclectic designer with a keen eye for innovation in both fashion and arts. His work is highly recognizable by his rich use of color, intensive embroideries, signature prints and a unique sense of humour, resulting in a multi‐disciplinary oeuvre, which evolves over time.

Bas Kosters is a strong and growing brand resulting in presentations of his work all over the world and collaborations with leading brands like Bugaboo, Coca Cola Light, Mattel, Heineken and Kiyichi Jeans.
www.baskosters.com
Bas Kosters fashion, dolls and drawings can be purchased at the SALON/2 Pop up Store - Oudezijds Voorburgwal 153, Amsterdam

YOUASME-MEASYOU at winterSALON/ at Droog

Download Layar from iTunes or online and head to winterSALON/Droog

Download application Layar from iTunes

Go to YOUASME MEASYOU in application

visit winterSALON/Droog

Enjoy

Jos Bregman at Flower/SALON

Flower SALON contributor Jos Bregman on exhibit at Droog

(photocredit: Mimi Berlin)

Be part of Tree Mob the global community of tree lovers and join Jos Bregman in his quest for a better understanding of why trees are so important in this world. At Flower SALON/ Droog, you can purchase part of a tree (like Manon has done here) and in a few months time, you will be invited to a picnic with tea and cake, under one of the most prominent trees in Holland. Tree Mob is the first tree-centred online community in the world, and you can be a part of it by visiting Flower Salon/ at Droog, Amsterdam - see you for tea and cake very soon.

Hub Urlings through Boomwordtnetwerk at FlowerSALON/

Manon Schaap at FlowerSALON/talking Hub Urlings through Boomwordtnetwerk

Perfume Poster Art from Salon/1

Just B. covered the work of Maurice and Liesbeth from Salon/1 - here they are showing for Flower SALON/ at Droog don't miss out on seeing still life perfection 21st Century style. Photo thanks to Joris Bruring

Flower Salon Cocktails by Grand Marnier at Droog

Maurice and Liesbeth