SALON/Istanbul: Autoban

One of the most spectacular designed spaces of the SALON/Istanbul route must be Autoban. This soon to be restaurant is a work in progress. We are proud and honoured to be using this space to exhibit Dutch and Turkish artists.

Sophie by Anouk Griffioen and Annemarieke van Drimmelen
In their first cooperation Annemarieke van Drimmelen and Anouk Griffioen explore the relationships between drawing and photography. They unite these different fields, as well as their respective personal styles, by each giving an own interpretation of the same subject. An important theme in the duo's shared vision is the concept of transparency, which they define as the tendency to make everything explicitly visible on an image. In their first ever exposition Sophie, the artists have developed a counter reaction to this form of direct visuals.

www.vandrimmelengriffioen.com

Disfarmer by Ümit Ünal
Ümit Ünal currently runs his private atelier in the ancient part of Istanbul/Turkey, where he designs his collections with a small team of artists, craftsmen and family members. He realized international projects with focus on art/performance and fashion.
The collection is inspired by portraits of photographer Mike Disfarmer 1884-1959. Disfarmer focussed on photograhing the people of Heber Springs, Arkansas. Rural people in the city, urban people in the countryside in workwear and/or Sunday clothes. 

www.umitunal.com

Alchemy, installation 4 by Conny Groenewegen
The Autumn/Winter 12/13 collection is inspired by alchemy and the mysterious transformations that colour our mind, body and spirit. Each garment is processed with pigments resulting in a layered colour intensity that changes the character of each yarn.
Women's label Conny Groenewegen offers innovation in knitwear. Her signature 'soft-tech' concept combines modern technology with traditional handwork.

www.connygroenewegen.com

U-Clothe by Zeynep Bacınoğlu
U-Clothe is a system of organization which is capable of producing the architecture of potentialities. It explores the process of relationships between function, materialization, form, environment, body and performance; push you to imagine how it will clothe your body.
Zeynep Bacınoğlu is an architect, currently researching at TU Istanbul.

Karssenberg-Greidanus

Cloudscape is the latest womenswear collection designed by fashion label Karssenberg-Greidanus. For the last four years they have profiled themselves as an innovative and surprising fashion brand. Their designs are based on the vision that clothing still has the primary function it once started from; protection against the elements of nature and of society. This collection is focused on protection against water. Big raincoats cover the body, giving shelter to your personal illusory world as well as protecting yourself against rain.

www.karssenberg-greidanus.com

Karssenberg-Greidanus and the installation by JONGHLABEL at DEPO.

SALON/Istanbul: MATTIJS

The SALON/ route has a central piece of the new collection on display made with Turkish Ikat fabric that Mattijs van Bergen found on his visit to Istanbul.

Mattijs van Bergen (1980), known for his neoclassical designs with distinct colours and refined fabrics, studied at ArtEZ and has a Masters degree at the prestigious Central Saint Martins College. In 2008 he launched his label MATTIJS. According to British Vogue "One of the most promising young designers". Craftmanship and a sculptural use of pleating define Mattijs collections. www.mattijsvanbergen.com

(photocredits: JW Kaldenbach)

Deniz Buga @ DEPO

Untitled, 2012

This work aims to imitate cinematic time through sequencing in photography.

In WH II (2012), he re-worked the film adaptation of Emily Brontë's Wuthering Heights directed by Andrea Arnold in 2011.

From the original film, he eliminated the actors, and worked with the elements surrounding them; the shots of objects, animals and landscapes. With a new edit and sound design, these shots created their own alternative narrative altering their original intention of use. 

www.rijksacademie.nl (photocredits JW Kaldenbach)

The modern harem style by YER

The 'YER fan' by Friso Dijkstra and the 'YER mattress' by Borre Akkersdijk were made for  SALON/Workshop, the interdisciplinary part of SALON/Istanbul where Dutch designers collaborate with Turkish artisans.

Located in the back of the Mavra café, this installation, a.k.a. the 'YER project', doesn't contain signs prohibiting visitors to sit down. The white opium-flower shaped fan and the, probably, most colourful mattress ever made are not just pretty objects. They ought to be used. Textile designer Borre Akkersdijk and product designer Friso Dijkstra, both graduates from the Design Academy in Eindhoven, ask that café-goers sit down and have a rest. The colour coordinated cushions are completing this cozy YER corner and make this part of the SALON/Workshop ever so inviting.

The YER (meaning place, ground or floor) project was inspired by paintings of Istanbul illustrating the social life which often takes place close to the floor. Think rich fabrics, beautiful brass and copper ware in tea houses decorated with tapestries and cushions.  

"We worked quite intuitive translating the idea into shape and colour. It is much our image of their culture."

(photocredits: JW Kaldenbach)

www.byborre.com
www.studio-friso.com

Student project SALON/Workshop with IKSV

(photocredits JW Kaldenbach)


Imperfection provides an opportunity to participants by bringing professionals in local and international creative industries and different brands together with university students and co-experience the thinking and producing processes.
The Istanbul Design Biennial Workshops where held with students, undergraduate and graduate, in urban design, urban and regional planning, environmental design architecture, interior architecture, industrial design, graphic design, fashion design, fine arts, and new media design departments of relevant universities.

Students that worked on this project are: Elif Isik,

--> Övünç Sevinç, Buket Onat, Mustafa Kemal Yurtta, Hasret Özdemir, Berilsu Hatirnaz and Bahar Mey.

YOUASME MEASYOU @ Jean Botter House

(photocredits JW Kaldenbach)

Youasme Measyou has installed a virtual reality installation at the Jean Botter House called Lovers. The Jean Botter House was the workshop and family house of Dutchman Jan Botter, a famous couturier to Sultan Adbulhamid II. The installation consists of a cloud of dialogues between lovers, that can be seen with the iPhone app 'YOUASME'. The app can be downloaded for free at iTunes.

Youasme Measyou is a refined knitwear and jersey brand that specializes in contemporary knits for men and women.

www.youasme.com

BLOMMERS / SCHUMM @ HOUSE CAFE, ISTIKLAL

(credits: JW Kaldenbach)

Anuschka Blommers (1969) en Niels Schumm (1969), both graduated of the Rietveld Academy, started working together ten years ago. Today, they are a succesful photography duo, ranked amongst the top fashion photographers. Their work is about people: focus is on the individual, something that is rarely done in the fashion world. They throw the expectations of the viewer off balance, playing with perspective and proportions. In each photograph, the viewer is hit with a big surprise, but always one that is beautiful and exactly on the mark. 

The picture shown above is the press image of UNSEEN photo fair in Amsterdam. It is hanging in the lovely HOUSE Cafe on Istiklal. 

www.blommers-schumm.com

SARA VRUGT @ SENSO UNICO

Sara Vrugt studied fashion design at the Koninklijke Academie van Beeldende Kunsten in The Hague and graduated in 2006. In her work she balances between fashion design and art. She uses textile as a medium and the human body as an instrument. 

Look At You is a series of textile installations, collections and community projects. The subject matter is the fine line between the human instinct and conventions in our society. She likes to reflect and criticize her immediate environment and society. A returning aspect in her work.

(photocredits JW Kaldenbach)

Sara, why did you start the Look At You series?

The way people look at each other and are being seen fascinates me. What are you showing of yourself with the way you dress, your presence, your behavior? Is it a pose?

In what way does this influence your opinion of another?

In Istanbul you showed two parts of the Look At You serie. Number 7 and number 10.

Yes I did. Look At You 10 I did as a performance in The Netherlands. It is an embroidered installation. I embroidered myself into an installation. Therefor I became an attached part of the work, the spectator was free to move. Looking and being looked at are the ingredients for the performance in this setting. It is about the confrontation the artist engages the spectator in, simply by looking at him, it can be felt as inviting, intriguing and intimidating at the same time. 

Look At You 7 are five miniature embroidery pieces I made while traveling overland from The Netherlands to Iran. These miniature embroideries are like textile blog posts. These embroideries contain 'pictures' over encountered people presented as strangers, but I was the stranger as well. It is about the question of perspective. 

Number 10 is the last of the series. Why did you use this piece to end the series?

In the original version, in which I was attached, different elements came together. Embroidery, being looked at, looking, being part of a space, performance and encountering others. It was all I had done before but It felt like I had to experience the whole series. 

In Istanbul I used a doll to be attached into the embroidered installation. 

What are you doing at the moment?

I'm working on a series of embroideries as well as preparing new projects in which I'll ask others to join.

press for SALON/Istanbul

SALON/Istanbul: gathered press clippings (Dutch and Turkish)

NRC Handelsblad

HARBERTURK

HELLO!

Vogue Turkey

De Volkskrant

De Telegraaf

Ersöz Ata at Grand Hotel de Londres

Ersöz Ata, having articulated various religious and spiritual codes in his last collection introduced in Spring 2012, assembles an era extending from Antiquity to Renaissance, through a single frame. Maria Magdalena, on of the most remarkable pieces among his last collection of Ata, represents the spiritual references upon the body of a woman in a sculptural form. 

This costume stands gracefully in the lounge of the marvelous Grand Hotel de Londres and is fully made out of metal and glass. Ersöz Ata works and lives in Istanbul. He studied design, ceramic and fashion design and specialized in leather and fur product design. 

www.ersozata.com

Covers (2001-2012) at FAI

(photocredits: JW Kaldenbach)
 
Covers (2001-2012) is a chronological display of the front pages of BUTT, Fantastic Man and The Gentlewoman, three international magazines founded and published by Gert Jonkers and Jop van Bennekom from Amsterdam, The Netherlands.

However different they may be, the magazines share a keen interest in fascinating personalities and real people with captivating stories that please both readers and spectators. The show that originality and personal style are inspiring qualities in men and women of the 21st century. 

Down the historic city centre of Istanbul you can find FAI. It stands for Future Anecdotes Istanbul. A graphic design studio run by Asli Altay who has an MA from Graphic Design and Communication, Chelsea College of Art and Design, London. Her book 'Future Anecdotes'; which gave the name of the studio, is in the Tate Modern Artist’s Book Collection in London, amongst some other private and public collections. Asli has also conducted lectures and workshops in London College of Communication, Chelsea College of Art & Design and University of Creative Arts.

www.fantasticman.com

www.thegentlewoman.com

www.futureanecdotesistanbul.com

Merva Tuna's performance @ Building

Merve Tuna's idea to put a belly dancer in a black latex outfit with matching mask, started when she travelled the London tube while listening to German cyber punk rock. Tuna originates from Istanbul and doesn't deliver boring fashion. This Turkish fashion designer has a keen sense of disturbing fashion.

After a period of taxidermia-fashion, she went from dead animals having orgies on a dress towards belly dancers in latex. At SALON/ we are more than happy to demonstrate a fresh vision of fashion with contradictions.
After her performance in the garden of design-store Building, she elaborates on her love for contradictions. "The song made me think about my youth, which is odd because it was German cyber punk, something that was not there when I was a child." She explains how one thing let to another. Because she felt there was a real resemblance with belly dance music, she felt she had to take this weirdness into a higher level. And she put in into an act.

A wise decision. Months later she shows her London tube idea by using a belly dancer wearing a S&M mask, a bra and a skirt with strings. All latex, all black, all Merve Tuna.

Antione Peters 'HOPE' @ Building

A silhouette without arms or head that continuously changes shape. This fantasy-figure is covered in crude oil in which various symbols of religions and pop culture are awaiting to be discovered. With HOPE Peters investigates the relationships between capitalism, power, belief and nature without prejudgment. His goal is to draw new connections and urge his audience into engaging in thoughtful dialogue.

The original idea for this project was to create a new world out of the purity of silhouettes and print design. This new world became a character, an abstract figure that changes shape all the time. Peters' collection are always subversive and socially critical, however in this project the designer is even more outspoken than usual.

Antoine Peters: "When someone sees connections between religion and being covered in oil, it probably comes from somewhere. However, it would be unfortunate if people only see the negative. With help of the negative I can illuminate the positive. For me, it's all about hope. For some, hope may be about wearing a chain with a cross. For others, hope is the belief in love, or the belief in the potential of the internet to create a better world. This project focuses on how to get along with each other and the world. Hope, in whatever form, breathes life into life."

In collaboration with dancer Alexe Jansen and photographer Marc Deurloo, Peters captured his design in a series of pictures, and together with Oscar Verpoort he created a short movie featuring music by Krause.

The print design is developed in collaboration with self-trained designer Alain Delluc, living and working in Istres, France. The design was created with 3D programs that were used for animated movies by Pixar and Disney.

See the series of pictures via www.antoinepeters.com

Trade Office by Frank Bruggeman & Eric Roelen

There it is. A quick coming of age. One month ago the idea came. One week ago the actual building started. And after a two-day-ride from the Netherlands to Istanbul it erected on the quay of Karaköy Harbor. "We wanted to symbolize the 400 years of cultural relations between Turkey and the Netherlands." 

The idea of this trading office began to form when Bruggeman was working on his flower pieces for the quay of Karaköy Harbor. There, next to the Clipper Stad Amsterdam, the symbol of 400 years of cultural and diplomatic relations between the two European countries stands strong. Bruggeman joined forces with Eric Roelen to work on the concept of a trading office, which is more or less a humble shop that has no goods on display but is only shifting papers that accompany the flow of goods. Roelen designed the Evergreen trading office. 

Elements of a trading office were combined with tulip bulbs and other plant materials that symbolize the large Dutch flower and plant export. This installation can be perceived as a kind of revenge: bulbs and plants that existed only on paper have suddenly come alive to reclaim their central position in the trading office. Inside the trading office, which is a small wooden house, the size of a garden house, there is a variation of nature locally found by Bruggeman, for example the dead branch of an conifer in it. This piece of work has more symbols. The tulip, the most Dutch symbol, is actually a Turkish flower. Therefor Bruggeman used one tile with a blue tulip. A typical Turkish decoration. 

The trading office is called 'Evergreen'. Bruggeman explains: "There is a huge Dutch trading company called Evergreen, they use big containers which you see everywhere. Besides that Evergreen is also a kind of fir, I am, in my work, keen on using dead pieces of green. They are, of course, not ever green at all."

(photocredits: JW Kaldenbach)

Lernert & Sander @ Tailor Ismail

Lernert & Sander were asked to create a film about bespoke tailoring for the Handmade issue of Wallpaper*. They hooked up with the famous italian tailors of Brioni and came up with the idea that a hand would be the ultimate customer to prove the skills and craftmanship of a brand as Brioni. 

The video is on show at Tailor Ismail at the French passage in Karaköy, Istanbul. 

Viviane Sassen/ Martine Stig @ Nefaset Kantine

Stig and Sassen occasionally collaborate on photographic projects such as the one SALON/Istanbul shows at Nefaset Kantine. They were inspired by the way young Muslim women manage to express personal taste and creativity in their clothing while maintaining strict rules and regulations set by their culture and religion with regard to female dress. The images they made were published recently as a series of fashion spreads in the British magazine Dazed & Confused. 

Günseli Türkay

Finale of the Günseli Türkay show of October the 10th. 

Günseli Türkay showed her S/S '13 collection full of flowing silhouettes. Simple elegance emphasized by handwork and eye catching details. Bianca Jagger, Marisa Berenson, Lauren Hutton are leading icons in this collection for next year. Creme and pastel shades cover the color palette. The collection will range from 70's inspired loose blouses, a trend during last show season in Paris and evening gowns. 

Hatice Gökce

Finale of the Hatice Gökce show of October 12th. 

Hatice Gökce

Born in 1973, Hatice Gökce graduated from Mimar Sinan University of Fine Arts. Her own design atelier was established in 1998 and since then Gökce has been the leading figure in menswear. As a designer she adopts experimentalism, uses innovative fabrics in her work and provides consultancy for Turkish institutions. 

She currently lives in Istanbul, Hatice Gökce is both collaborating with professional institutions and persons in order to carry her brand into the future, and designing customized wear for artists. In 2012, Hatice Gökce collaborated with Chinese brand Ilchi to design their upcoming menswear collection. As the first Turkish designer in Chinese fashion industry, this succes story in highly appreciated both in national and international arenas. 

Maryme-JimmyPaul at Uğurlugil Supermarket

photocredit: JW Kaldenbach

Bright colors in a brightly lit supermarket. Maryme-JimmyPaul lives up this tiny supermarket in the French passage in the neighborhood of Karaköy.

The collection is a tribute to an epic character, the deceased beauty queen JonBenet Ramsy. The attributes of her pageantry are the icons of a doomed world of constant self-representation. 

Maryme-JimmyPaul is a combination of forces united in Amsterdam. With an assortment of backgrounds that bring together art, architecture, fashion and sculpture they offer an unique projection and perspective of the world around them. Maryme-JimmyPaul works within the area that exists between art and fashion. Taking inspiration from their own created stories, worlds, people and perspectives on current (and past) pop culture; they present fashion in a different way. 

www.maryme-jimmypaul.com

Marga Weimans at Vasa Woodcarving

Photo by JW Kaldenbach

The ambition of SALON/ is to intertwine location, public and designer. This picture of Marga Weimans at VASA Woodcarving is not only breathtaking but also an example of a successful integration of design in its surrounding.

Marga Weimans is a fashion house which explores and pushes the borders of fashion by incorporating elements from various other creative disciplines, such as architecture, industrial design and fine arts. For this dress the designer has also developed the woven fabric herself and combined it with inspiration from an iconic silhouette by Christian Dior. By closely studying this dress and conducting many experiments to find the perfect structure and shapes she created the Apartment Dress as part of the installation ' Fashion House: Most Beautiful Dress in the World'. 

www.margaweimans.com

Pauline van Dongen: The Flip Dot Dress Performance

SALON/ was proud to present the most recent electronic design by Pauline van Dongen: the Flip Dot Dress. A dress which proves Van Dongen's true inventive nature as a fashion designer. "I really have to explore the boundaries of fashion."

During her artist in residence in Vienna she started out from the idea that every action has a certain result or consequence; the concept of leaving an imprint after each intervention or a certain interaction and thereby creating an interesting topography on the body. With this piece Van Dongen investigates the undulating surface of the body. She explores the idea of erosion, patterns, change and passing of time.

In Vienna she focused on wearables in fashion technology. Her wish to merge analogue and digital technology led her to flip-dots. They have a physical presence and tactility, emphasized by their flickering sound. Together with electrical engineer and robot hacker Daniel Schatzmayr, who she met in Vienna, she developed an interactive garment, by using the principle of flip-dots. Schatzmayr designed all the electronics and technology behind this kinetic piece. Each dot can individually be addressed by a computer to animate patterns swirling around the body. During the performance at the 333KM Gallery in Istanbul the dots were adjusted to react to the music. DJ Onur Karagöz created an eclectic mixture of electronic soundscapes with traditional Turkish influences. 


Photo's by JW Kaldenbach